So far so good, got everything apart to the point where I would remove the timing belt. Only things I've noticed wrong in the garage instructions is that for removal of the radiator, the article does not mention that there are some AC lines bolted to the radiator at the bottom that must be removed. Also, it has different procedures for 90-91 and 92 and later. My car is a 91 with the big nose crank, so I am following the 92 and later procedure.
1. The article has you remove the crank bolt, then the next section is marking positions by rotating the crank pully via a quot;suitable socketquot;. Since I just removed the crank bolt, how am I supposed to turn the crank? I've removed the crank pulley and I'm left with the woodruf key still on the crank. I can't remove it with my fingers, but can probably wrap it with rubber and grab it with pliers to remove. There does not appear to be any damage to the crank nose. Note that this is a big nose crank engine. See the attached picture. I assume I will need to remove the woodruff key, reinstall the crank bolt and use it to turn the engine. Is that correct?
2. Do I use locktite blue on the crank bolt when it's assembled for the final time? Do I use loctite or antiseize on anything else I am putting back together?
So far, everything came apart without a major problem, and there is no sign of the factory using locktite on any of the bolts. The crank bolt was a bit of a pain, I didn't have enough room with a 24 inch breaker bar as there is too much windup in the drivetrain. Instead I put a rachet on it which I could start from a much lower position than the longer breaker bar. I turned it far enough to be able to get a length of metal pipe over the handle of the rachet and then used the leverage of the pipe. Broke free no problem this way.
The usual practice is to position the timing at TDC before starting, but this is only for convenience. You can put the bolt back in and do it now. Or, if you wish, not do it at all. The only time the engine needs to be indexed (positioned) is upon reassembly. In no case should any additional marks be added.
Originally Posted by Lance Schall
The usual practice is to position the timing at TDC before starting, but this is only for convenience. You can put the bolt back in and do it now. Or, if you wish, not do it at all. The only time the engine needs to be indexed (positioned) is upon reassembly. In no case should any additional marks be added.
I had to turn the crank to get to the bolt that is accessible through the power steering pump pulley, so it wouldn't have stayed at TDC. The only marks I plan to add are with a silver sharpie marker on the old belt and the cam gears, then transfer these marks to the new belt.
What i've seen work on VW's is splitting the timing belt in half lengthwise. That way you can keep the old one on and everything positioned correctly, slide the new belt on half way then cut the old one off completely. A sharp knife seemed to work well on the older belts.
Originally Posted by sicklyscott
What i've seen work on VW's is splitting the timing belt in half lengthwise. That way you can keep the old one on and everything positioned correctly, slide the new belt on half way then cut the old one off completely. A sharp knife seemed to work well on the older belts.
I don't think I will be able to do it that way since I'm replacing the front crank seal. See the pic, it's seeping. Actually I'm a bit confused as to how to get to that seal. Any advice?
Originally Posted by boones
I had to turn the crank to get to the bolt that is accessible through the power steering pump pulley, so it wouldn't have stayed at TDC.
OK, you caught me. By 'before starting' I should have said 'right after the timing belt is exposed'. As far as marking things, if that works for you, by all means do it. I just never suggest, recommend, or do it myself. I've done dozens of Miata belts so you could imagine I've got it memorized, but I didn't mark my FIRST one either.
The woodruff key won't come out because it is also indexing the timing belt pulley. It sounds like it is still under tension so I wouldn't pull it out right now. Once it is removed you won't be doing any indexing so, like Lance said above, get things indexed first then pull things apart. If you can't index perfectly you can mark little dots on the belt and gears then transfer the dots to the new belt. Or I'm sure there is some other way that others will tell you. I remember how anti-climactic my first timing belt change was. I was so worried about indexing but in the end it was pretty simple.
Originally Posted by boones
I don't think I will be able to do it that way since I'm replacing the front crank seal. See the pic, it's seeping. Actually I'm a bit confused as to how to get to that seal. Any advice?
Pull off the belt, cog, and key. There's the seal.
If you are lucky, the cog comes off with a little jiggling. If not, there is no good way to pull it. If you pry, be gentle. The back edge of the cog is brittle. The cast aluminum behind it is the oil pump. It is not strong either.
I tapped on the left, then the right side. alternated a cpl times and it came loose.
prying things, and using power tools in an engine bay is skeery. someone recently used a power tool when I wasn't watching and.... I ended up with three outta 4 of the pulley bolts sheared off.
Originally Posted by sicklyscott
What i've seen work on VW's is splitting the timing belt in half lengthwise. That way you can keep the old one on and everything positioned correctly, slide the new belt on half way then cut the old one off completely. A sharp knife seemed to work well on the older belts.
That's a worthy 'trick' if you are just changing the belt. If you are in there to do a complete service, the belt has to come off to clear the other bits.
This isn't that hard. Just takes some patience and a bit of logic. Like Lance has said before, what are you going to do if the belt breaks while running the car and nothing is lined up or painted? If you know how it goes together (book or memory) it's not a problem.
Originally Posted by boones
2. Do I use locktite blue on the crank bolt when it's assembled for the final time? Do I use loctite or antiseize on anything else I am putting back together?
So any input on the use of locktite for reassembly? This is not a short nose crank.
Personally, I would not use any locktite, just torque it to the specified torque and leave it alone.
Unless on Miata's they are known to vibrate loose? In that event, a SMALL amount of BLUE locktite would not hurt.
Good luck.
I once helped my brother put a new timing belt and water pump on his transverse mounted 2.0L 4 in his 1992 Ford Escort, GT. His belt had snapped, but with a Haynes manual, it was not that bad to get the motor timed, belt installed and running again. With a regular (forward) mounted 4 like the Miata's, I would suspect it's not much different.
I know when I put a new belt on my 96 I just purchased (142 K and I don't believe it was ever changed), I'm going to replace the water pump AND front seal while I'm in there. Then it should be good to go for ahwile. |
Post at 2-7 09:31 AM
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