Plastic rear windo replacement

?  They claim that for 49.99 the kit will do the job.
adifab

You may find more responses in the tops and windows forum.  For that specific brand no never heard of it.  Some people though say it is just as expensive to replace the window as it is the entire top.  The reasons are you need to remove the old window, I think you need to take most of the top off in the back to do it but not sure.  Take old window and new window to get the old zipper sewn onto the new window so the teeth match up.  Then replace everything.  With the cost of the window, and labor a cheap new top could almost be had and installed.
Brad

products/body/emiata_window.html
I did do this to get through until next season.  It's work and I was a little sloppy but I do have a rear window now.

I had a Robbins top.  I found this out because they stick barcode labels on the inside behind the driver with the SKU# of the top.  I paid $150 (which if felt was a rip off) but it was cheaper than a new top.  It required removing the rain rail and drilling out a couple rivets, but it was pretty straight forward.  It is wonderful to have a clear window.

I did the emiata window just a couple of weeks ago. If I had any suppliers for the vinyl (small town and I didn't know how thick the window was) I would have just bought that in retrospect.
I did not use the glue that he supplied...his instructions indicated to glue the new window on the inside of the soft top, not on the outside as the original. I emailed him to ask what type of glue he had supplied but he would only tell me that quot;it will work finequot; for the way I wanted to do it. So I ended up going with quot;Marine Goopquot; and so far it is holding up nicely.
I made a shelf from plywood that fit nicely on top of the rear bar behind the seats, and three 2x4's stacked on top of each other to level it out. It made for a nice surface to work on, plus I'll keep the plywood in case I have to do any repairs in the future.
Plastidip rubberizing compound to cover the 1/2quot; overlap (everything masked off of course) and a textured roller to give it some texture and it looks not bad.
Good luck
Rick

Originally Posted by boston-terror
products/body/emiata_window.html
I did do this to get through until next season.  It's work and I was a little sloppy but I do have a rear window now.

Thank you this is exactly what i was looking for!
Cheers!

Originally Posted by Ricketts
I did the emiata window just a couple of weeks ago. If I had any suppliers for the vinyl (small town and I didn't know how thick the window was) I would have just bought that in retrospect.
I did not use the glue that he supplied...his instructions indicated to glue the new window on the inside of the soft top, not on the outside as the original. I emailed him to ask what type of glue he had supplied but he would only tell me that quot;it will work finequot; for the way I wanted to do it. So I ended up going with quot;Marine Goopquot; and so far it is holding up nicely.
I made a shelf from plywood that fit nicely on top of the rear bar behind the seats, and three 2x4's stacked on top of each other to level it out. It made for a nice surface to work on, plus I'll keep the plywood in case I have to do any repairs in the future.
Plastidip rubberizing compound to cover the 1/2quot; overlap (everything masked off of course) and a textured roller to give it some texture and it looks not bad.
Good luck
Rick

Very interesting, I will use a shelf but I'm not sure about changing the adhesive. As long as it works and holds up I will be ok with that.  The shelf seems like it would make it as easy as having the top out and on a bench!
Thank you!

It wasn't too bad working on the shelf, but the old body doesn't contort like it used to. I was pretty stiff and sore that night!!

Hi, I have a 1990 Miata and recently did a diy rear window replacement with materials available from the hardware store.  Please feel free to check it out at site/miatarearwindowrepair
Good Luck,
Joe