I'm fighting a problem with a SC install at the moment and needed to check the TPS ohm readings. Well, I noticed in the Haynes manual as well as the Enthusiast Manual, that is says to check continuity between pins Aamp;B and those are the instructions I've seen posted on here many times.
Well, I pulled out the FSM and it says terminals Camp;D and yes, the orientation is the same. If you use terminals Aamp;B, I think you'll end up assuming you have a bad TPS whereas using Camp;D gave me the exact readings as described in the FSM. When in doubt, I'll trust the FSM (it was for a 95 BTW although I was doing the procedure on my 94).
Until corrected, I'll assume the FSM is correct. Although perhaps if someone has a 96/97 manual, they could look up the procedure and make sure it wasn't wrong and corrected to be Aamp;B (at which point I have some more work to do ).
I love consistency. I have something different. This is out of my blue OEM Miata workshop manual.
1. Check for poor connection
2. Check wire harness between TPS and PCME? for continuity (hope you know what a PCME is I sure dont)
3. Check if PCME terminal 2M voltage is ok
and here is the pinout
tps------pcme
d------2k
c------2m
a------2d
and the voltage at the TPS should be. quot;Key onquot;
Pedal released .1 - 1.0
Pedal fully depressed 3.1 - 4.5
I have another book that says for 94 and later first insert a .016 feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and stop lever then check for NO continuity on pins C amp; D the bottom pair. It looks like the 93 and earlier use the resistance method. 93 and earlier manual trans resistance on pins Aamp;B. 93 and earlier auto trans pins Bamp;D
94 and later, check continuity on Camp;D, adjust TPS. Adjust TPS so there is continuity when a .012 feeler gauge is inserted between throttle stop screw and stop lever, and no continuity when a .016 feeler gauge is inserted. If you can not successfully adjust the TPS replace it.
The Haynes manual I have says to check continuity between the Camp;D terminals. I was able to use the procedure described in the Haynes manual to successfully set my TPS.
(hope you know what a PCME is I sure dont)
PCME = Power Control Module (Engine) = ECU.
Originally Posted by Dizzy
The Haynes manual I have says to check continuity between the Camp;D terminals. I was able to use the procedure described in the Haynes manual to successfully set my TPS.
Then they changed the Haynes manual because mine says Aamp;B as does the Enthusiast Manual. I checked with another forum member who has a 94 FSM and it also says continuity between Camp;D (which is what works, feeler gauges and all).
I have a 97 Factory Workshop Manual and it says there should be continuity between Aamp;B. Seems to be a lot of inconsistency here. I wonder if the connectors are labeled differently on different year models. My Mitchell service info also says to use Aamp;B on a 97. Both show the connector labeled as in the pic below.
OK, I looked up the info for a 94 model and it says to use the pins marked quot;E amp; IDLquot; which appear to be the same as the ones marked quot;Aamp;Bquot; in 97. Do these agree with the pins you used to adjust yours, Tom?
We have been working with both of our 96 miatas. Trying to get the TPS set correctly. It started with the newest one and the progressed over to the older 96 when we pulled the throttle body and put it on the new one with same results. We could not get either one to find 0 ohms by using the A amp; B pins. Again the son comes through and told me search some more as that is not the right pins period. We used the bottom two while I was searching and he found 0 ohms with the .016 feeler guage as stated. Every book I looked at showed the AB was the two to use. Finally I found this thread which verified what we did
Thanks Tom 4416 for the link you had we have to the best of our ability verified that it is the bottom two pins for a 96. I have two Haynes manuals from different years and both say the same thing use A amp; B.
Mad swede you are on the money your book may very well state something different Could we not put Toms post in the gargage section or Mad swedes in there so that others will know it is not the top ones for a 96 . Maybe some years do use the top two but
A 96 USES THE C amp; D PINS
Achervig you started this so thanks for your words as well
How did my name get in here?
Ok, here goes. My Haynes has a Smurf blue Miata on the cover and is copyrighted 1998. In Chapter 4, Pp. 4-12 to 4-13, it provides a different procedure for 1993 and earlier and later model NAs. So the OP's procedure should be the same as for mine. It clearly states to check continuity on C and D, which are the bottom two pins. I used a thin guage wire and minnie alligator clips to do this. Note that the TPS is very sensitive, but when you get it just right, your car will run much better in parking lots and traffic jams. Factory manual on F-159 clearly (and incorrectly) refers to A and B!!Although they confusingly have the terminal turned on its side, you can reorient it by noticing the ribs on the two sides. Enthusiasts manual likewise states it incorrectly. And Haynes is the only manual that shows the connector in its proper orientation in the car.
Believe me, Haynes is correct on this as I have successfully set mine using C and D, after wasting time wondering why nothing was working while following the other two manuals. I pull this story out every time I see people on the Forum parroting the quot;Haynes is worthlessquot; mantra...
Originally Posted by Mad Swede
How did my name get in here?
Ok, here goes. My Haynes has a Smurf blue Miata on the cover and is copyrighted 1998. In Chapter 4, Pp. 4-12 to 4-13, it provides a different procedure for 1993 and earlier and later model NAs. So the OP's procedure should be the same as for mine. It clearly states to check continuity on C and D, which are the bottom two pins. I used a thin guage wire and minnie alligator clips to do this. Note that the TPS is very sensitive, but when you get it just right, your car will run much better in parking lots and traffic jams. Factory manual on F-159 clearly (and incorrectly) refers to A and B!!Although they confusingly have the terminal turned on its side, you can reorient it by noticing the ribs on the two sides. Enthusiasts manual likewise states it incorrectly. And Haynes is the only manual that shows the connector in its proper orientation in the car.
Believe me, Haynes is correct on this as I have successfully set mine using C and D, after wasting time wondering why nothing was working while following the other two manuals. I pull this story out every time I see people on the Forum parroting the quot;Haynes is worthlessquot; mantra...
MadSwede. Both of my haynes Manuals say to use A amp; B on a 94 and latter
I just went back and looked and it says differently on a 93 and earlier. I mentioned your name because of your talking about it . You probably have the only haynes manual that says that as both of mine are different than yours. I noticed STO962 as well as others have it the same as mine. I think like osme of the others it was changed and then changed back or something
No matter I think it would be a good garage note just like th eone for the 90-93 years
I have the same Haynes manual as MadSwede and it does give a method for 1993 and earlier models and another method for 1994 and later models (C and D terminals).
Originally Posted by tom4416
Then they changed the Haynes manual because mine says Aamp;B as does the Enthusiast Manual. I checked with another forum member who has a 94 FSM and it also says continuity between Camp;D (which is what works, feeler gauges and all).
My 95 FSM says C and D.
I documented the static test process here: vb/showpost.p...2amp;postcount=10
all connections listed as top to bottom looking at the front of the engine
90-93 manual cars
A- +V
B- GND
C- +V
A+B= full throttle switch to depower AC compressor
C+B= idle switch to tell the computer to go to idle mode. This is what you adjust with the feeler gauge
90-93 automatic
A- +5v
B- TPS Signal
C- Idle switch
D- GND
C+D= feeler gauge idle setting point
94-97
Same as 90-93 automatic
I used C and D on my 97. I thought adjusting it was just a bit tricky, very small movements of a degree or so made a difference. I was never able to get it adjusted according to the manual. I ended up with my continuity at .012 and shutting off at .020. Essentially I ended up playing around with it and then putting it back where I started from. Which reminds me, be sure to mark it with paint or a scratch or something before you start messing with it. That reference will come in handy.
TPS sensors from that era (and in general) are pretty rugged. You can check continuity on them by just probing away. So on my '97 I just did that until I knew that the bottom two pins were quot;the onesquot;. On most cars I don't feel gage. I just set the meter to stun…err beep for continuity…and then open the throttle. If you can shut off the tone with minimal throttle opening motion then you are good to go. You have to check it as you tighten the little bolts as they can affect the setting a bit.
Would like to take this opportunity to correct my post #5 above:
PCME = Power Control Module (Engine) = ECU.
should read PCME = 'Powertrain Control Module (Engine) = ECU.' (Never noticed my error before, sorry.)
Originally Posted by Bill Strohm
Would like to take this opportunity to correct my post #5 above:
should read PCME = 'Powertrain Control Module (Engine) = ECU.' (Never noticed my error before, sorry.)
Bill - I think it's time for you to correct being without a Miata C'mon, you know you want one.
Bill - I think it's time for you to correct being without a Miata C'mon, you know you want one.
Gettin' old, Tom. I enjoy being a passenger in my wife's '94 FD. Other than that, if I bought an open sports car again, it would probably be an Ariel Atom. Might as well go all the way, yes? |
Post at 2-7 04:28 AM
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